Modern Beauty Basic

Intro ...

Pale matte skin first became a beauty ideal for Elizabethan women who used poisonous and paralysing lead oxide to achieve a stark white finish. In the 40s and 50s the glamor queens of Hollywood brought powder and flawless skin back into fashion, but back then, the finish was caked-on heavy.

Modern formulas are carefully milled to ensure that they feel super-fine on the skin. They care for your complexion rather than coating and clogging it and most importantly, they look like they aren't there.



Essential Tools

Powder can be applied with brushes or puffs - or a combination of the two.

Brushes: A big, soft brush distributes powder evenly and quickly, and you can use it to achieve the lightest dusting or a fuller application, A smaller brush is useful for hard-to-reach areas around the nose and eyes.

Puffs: Velour or velvet puffs are perfect for powdering oily skin complexion or shiny problem area's.

Powder lasts longer when it's applied this way too. Try patting it on with a puff first, then use a brush to buff off the excess and blend. Puffs should be washed regularly.



Special Ingredients

The way different powders look and behave depend on there ingredients.

Kaolin is derived from a natural white clay. It absorbs moisture and is resistant to oil. A high concentration can be drying.

Talc diffuses light, creating a matte effect. The more finely milled the better.

Mica reflects light, giving a shimmery finish and soft luminous effect, but too much mica in powder can look a little too sparkly and girly.



DIFFERENT TYPES OF POWDER.



* Loose Powder

What is does: Mattifies and sets your base, and makes blending bronzer, blush and eye shadow easier.



Pros & Cons:

+ You can use a little or a lot. Comes in lots of colours.

- Too bulky and messy to carry around with you. Application can take a little practice.



Best for: Most skin types, when you want to powder your face before going out.



* Translucent

What is does: Invisibly mattifies and sets base make-up; absorbs oil.



Pros & Cons:

+ Suits most skin types, makes skin appear even and smooth.

- Can look too pale if you have a tan.



Best for: All skin types, at any time of the day.



* Luminising

What it does: Reflects light, brightens your complexion and 'dresses up' your face.



Pros & Cons:

+ Gives you a healthy glow and accentuates contours.

- Can make skin look shiny if the powder contains large particles of glitter.



Best for: All skin types, when you have a special occasion and what to highlight cheekbones, shoulders, collarbones or decolletage.



* Pressed

What it does: Absorbs oil and fixes foundation and concealer.



Pros & Cons:

+ Portable, very fine powder; can be used to target small or large areas.

- Can be too heavy and drying for dehydrated skins.



Best for: Normal to oily skin types, when targeting problem areas, setting concealer or providing quick touch-ups.



* Blotting Paper

What it does: Absorbs shine and leaves behind a layer of powder to freshen your face.



Pros & Cons:

+ Mess-free way to remove oil from the skin and prevent caked-on powder.

- Is difficult to blend and has limited colour options.



Best for: Oily skin types, when you're on the go and want to blot away unwanted shine. Especially good in summer.



* Cream to powder

What it does: Turns to powder, mattifying the skin; provides fuller coverage than other powders.



Pros & Cons:

+ Long-lasting and can be worn on a bare face.

- Can smudge foundation and concealer if worn over the top. Too heavy for dry skin.



Best for: Oily and combination skins, when you want to disguise shine without wearing full make-up.





Choosing right colour for you.

- When wearing powder on bare skin, go for a shade that matches your skin tone as closely as possible and allow your moisturiser to sink in before application.



- Translucent powder works best over foundation and concealer because it seals in your base and won't alter your skin colour.



- Check translucent powder in natural daylight to make sure it really is colourless. If powder is too pale you will look chalky and ill.



- Use a slightly lighter shade around your eyes to make them look brighter. You need just a tiny amount of powder and a light touch, otherwise you may dry out delicate skin or draw attention to lines.



- Avoid powder that is darker than your natural skin tone. It can highlight uneven skin and make you look blotchy or grimy.



When it comes to powder less is more - a light dusting provides the invisible layer that finishes off a perfect base.



Powder step by step

Choose the right tools and application method for the finish you want, A brush gives a light but effective dusting, while a puff gives a velvety matte effect - great for oily skins.



Step 1: Tap excess powder off your brush, then gently sweep powder over your T-zone area, which is where shine occurs most. Lightly brush across your forehead, down the nose and along the chin.



Step 2: Without adding more powder to your brush, sweep from the center of your face across the cheeks, taking care not to powder the hair line. Buff over the area a few times for even finish.



Step 3: If needed, use a small brush to pat a touch more powder over oily areas like the sides of the nose, across the chin, between the brows and over any blemishes, blending carefully.



If you don't have shiny skin, try leaving cheeks powder-free for a more luminous finish.



Do's and Don'ts

Do sweep powder over eye shadow - to help last longer.

Don't re-apply powder until you have blotted excess oil away.

Do use a puff if your skin is oily - your powder will last longer.

Don't apply lots of powder to lined areas like under the eyes.

Do tone down heavy powder by spritzing water onto your face

Don't brush over concealed spots - pat it on instead.